Whatever chef Seng Luangrath is cooking is what I want to be eating, whether it’s the boundary-pushing jungle menu at her Lao standard-bearer Thip Khao in Columbia Heights or a bowl of explosively flavorful Thai green curry-powered gaeng keow wan at Padaek in Northern Virginia.

Now there’s a new spot to satisfy my craving for her cooking: Baan Mae, which means “mom’s house,” debuted in June. It’s a celebration of homestyle cooking across Southeast Asia, especially in Laos, Thailand, and Myanmar.   

Baan Mae takes over the space in Shaw that was once occupied by Hanumanh, her on-again, off-again Lao bar with her son, chef Boby Pradachith. That venture was a roller-coaster ride, opening in 2019, closing three months later for gas line maintenance, reopening at the beginning of 2020, shuttering during the pandemic, and rising again for a brief stint before closing for good in 2023.

With just over 30 seats inside, plus another two dozen on the patio in the back, the slender spot feels cozy and comforting. Holdovers from Hanumanh reinforce the sensation of familiarity. Striking monkey murals by Henley Bounkhong adorn the walls, and kratip (bamboo sticky rice containers) hang over the bar, now interspersed with oversize colorful paper umbrellas that look like they’re waiting to garnish Goliath-size cocktails.

The spirited touches reflect Luangrath’s joyful mindset about her latest project. “I don’t have room to play at Padaek or Thip Khao,” she says. “Baan Mae allows me to step out of my comfort zone. This is a playground. I can come in here and have fun.”

Accordingly, the menu changes every day, based on whim and what’s available. There are a few favorites from Hanumanh, including the crab curry and hua pii, banana blossom and jicama salad tarted up with tamarind sauce, freshened with mint leaves, and punctuated with crunchy peanuts and fried shallots.

Another standby is the sakoo, which she calls a “forgotten snack.” The dainty dumplings come across like giant tapioca pearls stuffed with crunchy, herbaceous peanut butter, a combination I never knew I craved until I bit into one. I’m now a stan for life. They are meant to be wrapped in little lettuce leaves, but I just popped them into my mouth like a kid unrepentantly eating marshmallows around a campfire.

The wings are equally addictive. Super sticky with a crunchy coating that gives way to tender meat, they start off with a rush of sweetness before giving way to a lingering spicy sting courtesy of the jaew bong (Lao preserved chili paste). As the kids say, they’re swicy AF. Another finger-licking option: thom khem, ribs shellacked with caramelized fish sauce and lychee for an acidic fruitiness. For something more oceanic, dive into the playful Fi-Lao O’Fish sandwiches. Inspired by Luangrath’s memories of going to McDonald’s after church on Sundays, slider-size brioche buns hold crispy cod filets slathered with tofu mayonnaise and perky cilantro chili sauce.

Moving into entrees, a bowl of khao soi gleams with golden turmeric curry, a tangle of yellow noodles nestled at the bottom, creating an island for grilled chicken, purple pickled onions, crispy onions, herbs, and half a hard-boiled egg. Southern Thai-inspired, pan-fried branzino is a showstopper. Spread across the plate with the head on, the crispy fish sits in a puddle of turmeric coconut sauce. For the perfect bite, pull off some of the flaky flesh, drag it through the garden of herbs and salad running along its spine, then add coconut rice shaded blue with butterfly pea.

Larger, shareable mains include naem paa, a whole fried branzino surrounded by fixins, including vermicelli noodles, a fusillade of fresh mint, peanut punctuated ngoc cham sauce, and lettuce wraps. It’s DIY deliciousness.

At the end of the meal, there are a few desserts. You would be well served ordering the mango black sesame sticky rice, crisscrossed with condensed milk, and a dollop of creamy White Rabbit candy gelato custom-made by Dolcezza. Taking its cues from two of Luangrath’s favorite childhood treats, it’s a taste of her having fun and reconnecting with her roots, a sweet encapsulation of what makes Baan Mae such a rousing success.

Baan Mae, 1604 7th St. NW. (202) 897-4826. baanmaedc.com.