Crystal Fernanders, Author at Washington City Paper https://washingtoncitypaper.com Wed, 01 Feb 2023 19:20:49 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://newspack-washingtoncitypaper.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/2020/08/cropped-CP-300x300.png Crystal Fernanders, Author at Washington City Paper https://washingtoncitypaper.com 32 32 182253182 The Carry-out Critic Enjoys Ethiopian Pizza and Hospitality at Ice N Slice https://washingtoncitypaper.com/article/587526/the-carry-out-critic-enjoys-ethiopian-pizza-and-hospitality-at-ice-n-slice/ Wed, 01 Feb 2023 16:54:17 +0000 https://washingtoncitypaper.com/?p=587526 Vegan pizza from Ice N Slice in Washington, D.C.Ice N Slice, a sister spot to Park View’s Heat Da Spot, serves pizzas with East African-influenced toppings and generous scoops of ice cream.]]> Vegan pizza from Ice N Slice in Washington, D.C.

Ice N Slice, a family-owned eatery that’s operated in Petworth since August 2022, takes its name from two of its featured menu items—ice cream and pizza. Owner Semret Asfaw opened the Ethiopian takeout spot on Georgia Avenue NW after successfully operating its sister concept, Heat Da Spot Cafe, a few minutes down the road for several years. 

The order and pickup windows are found on the Shepard Street NW side of the building. A red sign with the Ice N Slice logo, a drawing of an ice cream cone and slices of pizza, is posted above the store. The menu is displayed on yellow banners along the perimeter of the storefront. Another ordering window is a few steps down; a QR code posted on the business’ exterior allows customers to access the menu from a mobile device.

Ice N Slice's pick-up window in Washington, D.C.
Ice N Slice’s pickup window Credit: Crystal Fernanders

Ice N Slice offers six 14-inch Ethiopian pizzas to choose from, each topped with traditional meats and vegetables you’d normally find served as entrees. Berbere, a spicy and flavorful spice blend, is frequently used to season their proteins. The Merkato is topped with beef tibs, meat sauteed with herbs, garlic, and spices. It tops the pizza, along with green peppers, white onions, tomato sauce, and cheese. Doro Wat, a chicken and hard-boiled egg stew, and one of the most popular dishes in Ethiopia, is also transformed into a pizza. Litigab includes kitfo ground beef, feta cheese, and spinach. Their vegan option is the Lemenor, made with fava beans, peppers, onions, and mushrooms. 

While each pie is ordered regularly, the vegetarian takes a slight lead. The Addis Ababa, named after the capital of Ethiopia, is loaded with several vegetables, but is not your ordinary veggie pizza. Cooks season and saute the veggies ahead of baking them on the pizza. You get a pile of sliced cabbage, diced potatoes, chunks of carrots, spinach, and stewed lentils and chickpeas. Yes, all these toppings are on one pizza, so just imagine how filling it will be. 

Addis Ababa pizza at Ice N Slice in Washington, D.C.
Ice N Slice’s Addis Ababa pizza Credit: Crystal Fernanders

I often avoid eating my pizza with veggies, usually because the veggies rely on the cheese and meat toppings to get any flavor. That is not the case with the Addis Ababa. The veggies taste good all on their own. Eating them in the form of pizza makes them taste even better. 

All pizzas are served with a side of the restaurant’s spicy green sauce, flavor-packed with jalapeno and garlic, and raw honey to use to your liking. The sweet and spicy elements complement each other, with the green sauce also brightening the flavor of each slice.  

The hand-tossed pizza crust also deserves some attention. I could honestly just eat it without any toppings. The dough bakes up nice and thick, holding up to the toppings very well. Even with its sturdiness, it was not chewy, and developed a nice crust on the bottom. It also reheats in a toaster oven or air fryer extremely well. (Trust me, you’ll definitely leave with leftovers.) They also offer a gluten-free crust. If you don’t want to be adventurous with the Ethiopian toppings, you can opt for a classic topping of pepperoni, cheese, or sardines. 

The Ethiopian pizzeria serves a handful of sandwich wraps too. Their kitfo, similar to their pizza option, is ground beef marinated with a mitmita spice made of bird’s-eye chili. Cooks saute the beef with fresh spinach, mix it with crumbled feta, then roll it up in a spinach wrap. Every last bite of this wrap melted in my mouth. There was a hint of heat from the mitmita, which added an orange-red color to the meat. It is a bit greasy, but that’s what napkins are for, amiright?

Kitfo Wrap at Ice N Slice in Washington, D.C.
Ice N Slice’s kitfo wrap Credit: Crystal Fernanders

Ice N Slice serves breakfast throughout the day. Start with iced or hot coffees, lattes, or chai, each available with oat and almond milk as dairy alternatives. Sandwiches are served on toasted whole grain and sourdough bread, or on a plain, everything, or cinnamon raisin bagel. Fill your sandwich with your preferred combination of bacon, sausage, ham, veggies, eggs, and cheese.

On to the “Ice” in the restaurant’s name—the ice cream. They offer several ice cream flavors from the Philadelphia-based creamery Bassetts, served as double scoops. Mix and match between flavors like vanilla, chocolate, mint chocolate, strawberry, coffee, cookies and cream, butterscotch, and salted caramel pretzel. Top the scoops with Oreo pieces, M&M’s, Reese’s chunks, gummy bears, or toasted nuts for an additional charge. You can also order your ice cream as a milkshake. 

Besides the appetizing food, the customer service made me feel like I was visiting a family member’s home. A group of ladies made a pit stop at Ice N Slice to use the restroom, and stuck around to grab dessert because of the welcoming service. Another customer, who recently moved to D.C. proper, was brought to tears with the generosity she received. I completely lost track of time, and was there for almost two hours. We not only felt the love in the food, it truly shined through the hospitality. 

Ice N Slice is located at 3933 Georgia Ave. NW. They’re open Tuesday through Sunday, 8 a.m to 8 p.m. Prices range from $4 for sandwiches to $26 for pizzas. They offer a 10 percent discount for Howard University students that show their school IDs. Pickup orders can be placed online, over the phone, and in person. 

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The Carry-Out Critic Indulges in Deep-Fried Seafood and Spiced Crab Cakes at Chef Skip https://washingtoncitypaper.com/article/584424/the-carry-out-critic-indulges-in-deep-fried-seafood-and-spiced-crab-cakes-at-chef-skip/ Thu, 05 Jan 2023 15:35:21 +0000 https://washingtoncitypaper.com/?p=584424 Takeout from Chef Skip in Washington, D.C.Chef Skip, a seafood spot on the Howard University campus, comes from cousins and co-owners Chantel and Christopher Skipper.]]> Takeout from Chef Skip in Washington, D.C.

The Black-owned seafood spot Chef Skip has operated on the Howard University campus since August 2021. Its roots date back to 2015, when owners and cousins Chantel and Christopher Skipper started the food truck turned storefront business in Virginia Beach and Portsmouth, Virginia. After initially offering several types of protein cooked in different ways, they realized that fried seafood was their top seller, so they made it their main concept.

The takeout restaurant on Euclid Street NW is on the ground floor of a row house. A sign reading “Chef Skip Takeout” in white and neon green sits on top of the shop. The exterior is black with bright green trim that catches a passerby’s eye. As you walk in, you’ll see a neon light on the left with the words “Good Food Only.” On your right will be the cashier, a digital menu, and two display cases with bottled drinks and desserts. 

The exterior of Chef Skip in Washington, D.C.
The exterior of Chef Skip Credit: Crystal Fernanders

About 90 percent of the food on Chef Skip’s menu is fried, so do not come here if you’re counting calories. They offer baskets, mixed seafood platters, sandwiches, and a kids menu, all served with rosemary and thyme french fries. If you like, you can swap fries for a slightly sweet coleslaw. Some proteins can also be purchased as an add-on. Everything is cooked to order in canola oil, taking 10 to 15 minutes. As a special touch, each menu item comes with an edible flower garnish.

The most popular meal is the salmon bites basket. Six salmon pieces, slightly larger than bite-size, are dipped in an egg wash, lightly breaded with cornmeal, and deep-fried. They are seasoned with Old Bay and Cajun spices, then placed on top of a hefty serving of herbed fries. The salmon is drizzled with remoulade and Chef Skip house sauce, a sweet aioli. This was a cheap and filling meal. The salmon kept its crispy exterior while being juicy in the middle. The fries also had a nice crunch after sitting for a while, and still taste good when cooled. This basket is a hit with the Howard students, and I see why. 

Salmon basket from Chef Skip in Washington, D.C.
Salmon basket Credit: Crystal Fernanders

I also recommend the four-ounce crab cake, sold in a basket, platter, or as an add-on. Cooks use remoulade as a binder instead of mayonnaise, and I’m wondering why I haven’t done this myself. The crabmeat is also mixed with seasoned breadcrumbs, eggs, and Old Bay, then seared and served with a side of the house sauce for dipping. I only had a bite of the crab cake the same day I ordered it (blame the salmon bites platter). It was just as good reheated in the toaster oven the next day. I loved that remoulade was mixed in, giving the crab a hint of spice. 

The neighbors regularly order the shrimp po’boy. Martin’s hoagie rolls are filled with four jumbo shrimp, remoulade, and coleslaw. The staff also notice that the older crowd likes to order the fried clams and oysters, usually as a platter. 

If you are not in the mood for seafood, there are a few items to choose from. Chantel recommends the chicken Philly, served on a bun or on top of fries. She joked around, saying “I wanted a version of the Philly with no bread and less carbs, so I put it on top of fries so I won’t feel bad eating it…,” and that is my type of party. The Philly, also available with steak, is cooked with onions, sweet peppers, and American cheese, then drizzled with the house sauce. 

Chicken Philly fries at Chef Skip in Washington, D.C.
Chicken Philly fries Credit: Crystal Fernanders

There are also fried wing baskets, with eight wingettes tossed in your sauce or seasoning of choice. Cooks marinate the wings in hot sauce and Old Bay before deep-frying. Choose between nine flavors: plain, BBQ, lemon pepper, mumbo, hot, Old Bay, ranch, sweet chili, or buffalo. You can mix and match two flavors to jazz things up a bit. I opted for lemon pepper and my wings were tossed in a little lemon juice so that the seasoning sticks. I also got mumbo sauce, made with Capital City Mambo, because that’s part of my diet. Both options were finger-licking winners.

The desserts at Chef Skip come from the local bakery Nina’s Sweet Cakes. She offers a rotation of dessert jar flavors, including strawberry shortcake, banana pudding, red velvet, and some seasonal flavors. Unfortunately, there was only one flavor available on my visit. This is a good problem, though, because they apparently sell out that quickly. Also, lucky for me, I’m a slut for a lemon dessert, so I was not upset that their strawberry lemonade cake jar was the only flavor available. Don’t get this if you do not have a sweet tooth. I was going to save half for another day, but oops, it didn’t last that long.

A strawberry lemonade cake jar at Chef Skip in Washington, D.C.
Strawberry lemonade cake jar Credit: Crystal Fernanders

Chef Skip is the definition of high-quality fast food. Fairly priced (items range from $7 to $21), with fresh ingredients, speedy service, satisfied taste buds, and a pleased stomach. A quick note: Yes, everything is deep-fried. However, none of the food I tried was super greasy. Don’t feel too guilty when you visit them. 

Chef Skip is located at 715 Euclid St. NW. Hours are Monday through Saturday, noon to 10 p.m. Pickup orders can be placed online, in person, or over the phone. Delivery is available through DoorDash and UberEats.

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The Carry-out Critic Finds a Healthier Form of Funnel Cake at Bubbie’s Plant Burgers https://washingtoncitypaper.com/article/582472/the-carry-out-critic-finds-a-healthier-form-of-funnel-cake-at-bubbies-plant-burgers/ Fri, 16 Dec 2022 16:42:21 +0000 https://washingtoncitypaper.com/?p=582472 The agave mustard chick'n sandwich at Bubbie's Plant Burger, a plant-based restaurant in Washington, D.C.Bubbie’s Plant Burgers, a plant-based, kosher-certified concept, serves burgers, fries, and other Americana-influenced dishes near Dupont Circle. Its founders, chef Margaux Riccio and general manager Shaun Sharkey, came up with the concept after successfully running Pow Pow, another plant-based fast casual eatery with Asian influences. Bubbie’s operated as a pop-up for a year inside Rock […]]]> The agave mustard chick'n sandwich at Bubbie's Plant Burger, a plant-based restaurant in Washington, D.C.

Bubbie’s Plant Burgers, a plant-based, kosher-certified concept, serves burgers, fries, and other Americana-influenced dishes near Dupont Circle. Its founders, chef Margaux Riccio and general manager Shaun Sharkey, came up with the concept after successfully running Pow Pow, another plant-based fast casual eatery with Asian influences. Bubbie’s operated as a pop-up for a year inside Rock & Roll Hotel before the music venue shut down in March 2020. A month later, Bubbie’s opened its space on M Street NW, first as an incubator for it and other concepts and is now a takeout restaurant. 

Riccio developed a severe dairy allergy early in her culinary career. She did not want to sacrifice her love for appetizing food, and thus the plant-based concept was born. She’s since founded Vertage, a cheese company that uses no animal byproducts. Vertage supplies their cheeses to several local restaurants, including Cielo Rojo, Teaism, Call Your Mother, Uprise Bagels, and Andy’s Pizza

Bubbie’s menu is entirely plant-based, but still meant to please a meat eater’s palate. “Our staff are not vegan. When I create a new menu item, it will not make it on the menu if they do not like it,” Riccio says. 

The interior of Bubbie's Plant Burgers on M Street NW in Washington, D.C.
The interior of Bubbie’s Plant Burgers Credit: Crystal Fernanders

The store’s exterior is white brick with a large decal of their logo in the window. A blue and white sign is below it with a breakdown of their menu. Inside, browse the menu on the self-serve kiosk, next to a display case with several bottles and canned drinks. If you choose to dine in, there are a couple of bar seats near the bay window.

The menu consists of sandwiches, large salads, sides, and sweets. Most of these can be prepared gluten free, with either gluten-free buns or a different breading. 

Sandwiches are the top seller, with the tofu-based chick’n sandwiches being the most popular. Cooks marinate the tofu in spices and a vegan chicken bouillon, giving the tofu the flavor of real chicken. It’s then breaded and deep fried before being assembled into different sandwiches on toasted bread. Get a classic fried chick’n sandwich, garnished with pickles, Bibb lettuce, and sliced tomatoes. There’s also Nashville hot chick’n sandwich: The fried chick’n is soaked in a spicy hot sauce, topped with southern-style coleslaw, and served on Texas toast.

Riccio’s favorite sandwich is the agave mustard fried chick’n. The hand-battered chick’n is smothered in a sweet and savory mix of mustard powder and agave syrup. It’s topped with coleslaw and hand-cut pickles, and served on a soft roll. Mustard is my least favorite condiment, so I was surprised how much I loved this one. Think of a honey mustard sauce with more natural sweetness and less mustard. It was a little sticky, which is fine by me, since I already can’t eat a sandwich without needing several napkins. More importantly, it tastes JUST LIKE CHICKEN! Same with its texture.

A beet burger from Bubbie's Plant Burger in Washington, D.C.
Bubbie’s Plant Burgers’ beet burger Credit: Crystal Fernanders

Bubbie’s makes their own beet patties for their burgers. Raw beets are shredded, then mixed with dehydrated and ground garbanzo beans that act as a binder. It’s then seasoned with garlic, onions, and various spices and formed into quarter-pound patties before grilling. If you don’t want to be that adventurous, the beet patty can be swapped for Impossible meat. 

Full disclosure: I hate beets. They taste like dirt. With that in mind, it did not cross my mind that I was consuming one of my least favorite vegetables. I ordered mine as their Single Bubb, topped with oat-based American cheese and the signature sauce, a spin on thousand island dressing. I also felt inclined to top it with their plant belly bacon. It’s made of tofu blended with seitan, a savory, high-protein meat substitute made of wheat gluten.

Buffalo fries from Bubbie's Plant Burgers in Washington, D.C.
Buffalo fries from Bubbie’s Plant Burgers Credit: Crystal Fernanders

Can’t have a sandwich without a side of fries, amiright? Pick either regular or sweet potato, served with ketchup and yum sauce. There are also buffalo fries, which include their chick’n tossed in a mild buffalo sauce. It’s piled onto the fries, drizzled with ranch sauce, then topped with cashew blue cheese crumbles and sliced scallions. The chick’n-to-fry ratio was superb, and there were just enough sauces that the fries did not get soggy. 

Additional sides are onion rings, chick’n nuggets, fried drumsticks tossed in your sauce of choice, creamy potato salad, macaroni salad with peppers and Parmesan cheese, and slow-cooked baked beans. There are also jalapeño poppers, with five per serving. Cashew cream cheese is mixed with bacon bits and stuffed into jalapeño peppers. Then, cooks bread the peppers in panko, deep fry them, and drizzle them with a bit of sweet grape jelly sauce. This sweet and spicy combo was impeccable. The cream cheese tamed down the heat of the peppers, and the sauce gave it the flavor bomb I didn’t know was missing in my life. 

Jalapeno poppers from Bubbie's Plant Burgers, a plant-based restaurant in Washington, D.C.
Bubbie’s jalapeño poppers Credit: Crystal Fernanders

Satisfy your sweet tooth with a hand-spun milkshake or soda float, made with house-made oat milk ice cream. Bubbie’s sells three-packs of vegan, gluten-, and peanut-free cookies from the woman-owned bakery Partake. For a warm dessert option, consider the sugar sticks. Sweet potato fries are dusted with lots of powdered sugar. It’s accompanied with three sauces served on the side—peanut butter drizzle, chocolate tahini, and a balsamic butter sauce. Bruh … get these. It’s like a gourmet funnel cake, but healthier because it’s sweet potatoes (is what I’m telling myself). 

Breakfast is also available Fridays through Sundays until 4 p.m. Grab a toasted bagel with cream cheese or a breakfast burger. Sandwiches have homemade plant-based eggs, American cheese, and breakfast meats, served on biscuits, bagels, or English muffins. Bubbie’s will open their second location in early 2023, where there will be a broader brunch menu on the weekends. 

“I love that we take the time to create our proteins, cheeses, and sauce in-house,’ Sharkey says. “I believe us taking the time adds to the home-style vibe that’s evoked in the name, and the types of food we serve.”

Whether you are living a plant-based lifestyle, looking to take a quick break from the meat-eater diet, or just want to be #FakeHealthy, Bubbie’s Plant Burgers is the place to be for a quick meal. Don’t think of it being a vegan eatery, though. It’s just damn good.

Bubbie’s Plant Burgers is located at 1829 M St. NW. Hours are Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 8:30 p.m., and Friday through Sunday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Pickup and delivery orders can be placed online, or in person at the kiosk. 

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The Carry-out Critic Finds Beautiful Wings and Juicy Sandwiches at Soul Wingz https://washingtoncitypaper.com/article/579601/the-carry-out-critic-finds-beautiful-wings-and-juicy-sandwiches-at-soul-wingz/ Wed, 23 Nov 2022 15:14:35 +0000 https://washingtoncitypaper.com/?p=579601 An assortment of chicken wings from Soul Wingz, a soul food restaurant in Washington, D.C.Black-owned soul food takeout spot Soul Wingz has operated near Howard University since April 2022, but owners Anthony Holmon and Menyana Williams started the concept in 2008, operating as a pop-up restaurant throughout the area before purchasing a food truck in 2016. The D.C. natives gained a lot of business after regularly visiting the Howard […]]]> An assortment of chicken wings from Soul Wingz, a soul food restaurant in Washington, D.C.

Black-owned soul food takeout spot Soul Wingz has operated near Howard University since April 2022, but owners Anthony Holmon and Menyana Williams started the concept in 2008, operating as a pop-up restaurant throughout the area before purchasing a food truck in 2016. The D.C. natives gained a lot of business after regularly visiting the Howard campus, ultimately deciding to make the corner of Harvard Street and Georgia Avenue NW the home of their first storefront. They plan to open a second location at Pentagon City Mall in early 2023.

The restaurant plays old-school R&B music, which can be heard when walking nearby (and might lure in potential customers). The interior walls are red with black trim and a handful of bar chairs for dining in near the front window lined with flashing string lights. A display fridge by the front counter holds desserts and bottled drinks. Large laminated menus are on the countertop for customers to place orders at the register, and an open kitchen is visible behind the cashier.

At first, the music drew me to the restaurant, but the smell of fried chicken wanted me to stay longer. It’s not that “fast food fried chicken” smell, neither—I’m talking about the good, homemade kind. The sounds and smells reminded me of stopping by a family member’s house for dinner over the holidays. Customers were in and out of the restaurant, having lively conversations with the owners and myself and bonding over food. From those signs, I knew I would get a home-cooked meal. 

Soul Wingz obviously serves more than just tasty chicken. Think of one of your favorite soul food meals, and they will most likely have it. The menu is divided between breakfast, “midday mealz,” “wingz,” “saladz,” “sandwichez,” “drinkz,” and “sweetz.” Apart from their desserts, everything is prepared in-house and cooked to order. They also do not use salt or pepper in any of their dishes. “The nurse that took care of my mother before she passed mentioned salt and sugar being the root of most of our illnesses,” Williams says. She kept that same mindset with the Soul Wingz concept.

Chicken wings and lemonade from Soul Wingz, a soul food restaurant in Washington, D.C.
Chicken wings and lemonade from Soul Wingz Credit: Crystal Fernanders

Soul Wingz’s top sellers are—you guessed it—their chicken wings! One customer mentioned they were the best ones she’s ever had. Choose between 13 flavors, or mix and match two flavors per order. The wings, available whole or in party size portions, are marinated in their signature Soul Seasoning, then roasted and tossed in your sauce of choice. They’re served in eight, 12, or 16 piece orders, a la carte or as a combo with sides and a drink. I tried the most popular flavors—mumbo, jerk, spicy, and soul—getting four of each. The wings are nice and saucy but not drowned. Each of the sauces is made from scratch. I love the mumbo flavor—that one deserves to be put on shelves. 

The signature soul wings were my favorite. It is the only wing option that’s lightly tossed in seasoned flour, deep fried, and served sauceless. The chicken was so juicy in the middle, with the crispy, perfectly seasoned skin, and without much grease. I tried a bite with some mumbo sauce, which was unnecessary. That wing was beautiful on its own. So good, in fact, that while I tried one in the restaurant, with plans to eat the rest later, the soul wings did not make it home. I ate them in my car.

Shrimp and grits from Soul Wingz, a soul food restaurant in Washington, D.C.
Shrimp and grits from Soul Wingz Credit: Crystal Fernanders

Soul Wingz sells breakfast all day. Go for one of their omelets, sandwiches, French toast, pancakes, waffles, or breakfast platters. I went with the latter, which comes with a side of toast, two eggs cooked your way, and home fries. The shrimp and grits platter called my name. “I guarantee you that we make the best shrimp and grits in the city!” Holmon says. This may be debatable, because I haven’t come across a bad batch of them, but theirs is pretty damn good. Cooks saute the shrimp on the flat-top grill with lots of caramelized onions, place it on a huge bed of buttery Colby Jack cheese grits, then sprinkle them with more cheese. This platter reminded me of a home-cooked Sunday breakfast. 

Do not sleep on their sandwiches! Soul Wingz has a steak and chicken sub that felt like it weighed about three pounds. I highly suggest sharing this with someone unless you plan to take a nap afterward. Tender pieces of diced chicken breast and steak are cooked on the griddle with caramelized onions, and topped with lots of Colby Jack. A seven-inch sub roll is lightly toasted and spread with mayo before being filled with a bit of shredded lettuce, sliced tomatoes, and all that meat. Three words for this one: hefty, juicy, mouthwatering.

A chicken, steak, and cheese sandwich from Soul Wingz, a soul food restaurant in Washington, D.C.
The chicken, steak, and cheese sandwich at Soul Wingz Credit: Crystal Fernanders

If you haven’t already passed out after eating a meal here, wash it down with their signature drinks. There are eight flavors to choose from, including the popular Soul Mix. It is their version of an Arnold Palmer, known as a half and half in D.C. culture, that has a hint of lime. If you’re not a tea drinker, there are sweet and fruity versions of their Soul Mix, with lemonade and your juice flavor of choice. The fruit punch lemonade tastes like a drinkable version of Bomb Pop popsicles. 

A rotation of individual servings of cake, pie, and seasonal cobbler flavors, made at a local baker, are always available. I’m a sucker for lemon desserts, and the lemon cake slice with a light glaze pleased me. It was pillowy soft, and not too tart that you’re puckering your lips.

If you’re in the mood for a simple, but damn good home-cooked meal, Soul Wingz will take care of that craving. But please, do not make plans to be productive after eating here. 

Soul Wingz is located at 2851 Georgia Avenue NW. Hours of operation are Mondays through Thursdays from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m and Fridays and Saturdays from 11 a.m. to midnight. Place orders in person, and online for pickup or delivery. Prices range from $4 to $20.

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The Carry-Out Critic Enjoys Many Momos and a Surprising Curry at Moh Moh Licious https://washingtoncitypaper.com/article/575263/the-carry-out-critic-enjoys-many-momos-and-a-surprising-curry-at-moh-moh-licious/ Thu, 13 Oct 2022 16:27:10 +0000 https://washingtoncitypaper.com/?p=575263 Momos, curry, and soup from Moh Moh Licious in Shepherd ParkMoh Moh Licious, a small restaurant in Shepherd Park, serves Nepalese cuisine with an  Indo-Chinese twist. Restaurant partners Sujil Dangol and Farooq Munir joined forces in 2015 while running separate businesses (the former Himalayan Heritage in Bethesda for Dangol, Jolt ’N Bolt Coffee in Adams Morgan for Munir). It started as a food truck before […]]]> Momos, curry, and soup from Moh Moh Licious in Shepherd Park

Moh Moh Licious, a small restaurant in Shepherd Park, serves Nepalese cuisine with an  Indo-Chinese twist. Restaurant partners Sujil Dangol and Farooq Munir joined forces in 2015 while running separate businesses (the former Himalayan Heritage in Bethesda for Dangol, Jolt ’N Bolt Coffee in Adams Morgan for Munir). It started as a food truck before their storefront was built a year later. The trucks would serve food downtown during lunch hours, and the store would open for dinner in the evening. 

A momo is a Nepali dumpling—the h was added to make the pronunciation easier. “Licious” in the restaurant’s name has a double meaning. “In my country, ‘licious’ is gifting something to someone out of respect,” says Dangol, a Nepal native. It’s also short for the English word “delicious.”

The counter at Moh Moh Licious in Washington, D.C.
Moh Moh Licious’ counter Credit: Crystal Fernanders

A bright orange sign shows the name of the restaurant outside the rowhouse eatery on Georgia Avenue NW. Walk up the staircase and enter through the door on the left, which shows a large picture of their menu items. Nepal’s national flag hangs on the left side of the restaurant next to the hot drink menu. To the right is the ordering window and the menu board that displays their cold drinks. Look up for the food menu, with pictures of most of their dishes. There are a couple metal tables for dining located throughout the room. 

Moh Moh Licious serves a broad menu of appetizers, curries, biryanis, tandoor, naan, and desserts. Daily specials change twice a week. Whether you’re a meat eater, vegan, or anything in between, there’s something to fill you up. If you can’t find exactly what you want, just ask! 

“We want to serve what you have a taste for. If you want to mix two of our dishes together, we will! If we have it, we will make it. It’s about pleasing the customer,” Munir says.

The steamed dumplings are the most popular menu item, available in a six or 10-piece serving. They sell up to a thousand momos a day! The wrappers for the dumplings are made in-house with just water and flour. Choose between chicken, pork, beef, or veggie fillings, folded into cute little bundles, then steamed for about 10 minutes to cook through. Pair the dumplings with one of four dipping sauces—sesame tomato, red spicy, tamarind, and soya ginger. I tried each steamed dumpling with each sauce. The beef momo with the tamarind sauce was my favorite pairing. The beef dumpling had the right amount of spices, and I could honestly drink the tamarind sauce. 

Momos from Moh Moh Licious
Momos Credit: Crystal Fernanders

Moh Moh Licious also offers kothey, a pan fried dumpling, and deep fried dumplings. The jhol momo is a steamed dumpling that sits in a masala broth. C momo is a hot and spicy dumpling simmered in a dried chili and garlic paste. You can choose your filling for either of these dumpling options, which are served in orders of 10. 

With the weather breaking, it’s the perfect reason to try one of their soups. The thukpa (pronounced “toop-ka”) is a hearty Himalayan noodle soup, ordered frequently. Pick either their chicken or vegetarian versions, each made with handmade egg noodles, peas, carrots, cabbage, and beans, and garnished with sliced scallions. The broth in this soup was so fragrant, tasting just as good as it smells with a bit of spice. It’s a great way to stay warm for the next few months. 

There are a couple dozen curries to choose from, served with a side of basmati rice. Their popular veggie curry options are okra, chickpeas, and paneer—a fresh cheese with a creamy flavor similar to ricotta. The non-veggie curries are chicken, lamb, goat, shrimp, or salmon. They’re all slowly cooked in different curry bases, like masala, vindaloo, saag, and korma. 

The lamb and goat masala are their top selling curries. It gets seasoned, seared, and braised in a spiced tomato-based sauce for three hours. Personal disclaimer: goat and lamb are the last thing I’d order while dining out. But I of course had to see what theirs was about. Their goat and lamb are now the exception. So tender, didn’t taste gamey, right amount of spices, and savory sauce—it’s a winner!

A mango smoothie from Moh Moh Licious
Moh Moh Licious’ mango smoothie Credit: Crystal Fernanders

Moh Moh Licious offers hot and cold beverages to pair with meals. Refreshing fruit smoothies include strawberry banana, piña colada, and a mango lassi, made of mangoes blended with sweet yogurt. Their frozen drinks are made with tea or coffee, and blended with ice. Espresso drinks, like cappuccino, mocha, and Americano, are available hot or over ice. Other warm drinks are a spicy chai, hot chocolate, and a spiced apple cider that’s sold seasonally. 

The restaurant regularly sells a handful of desserts, with an occasional dessert special. I gave the rice pudding a try. Basmati rice is cooked low and slow with milk, sugar, cinnamon, and vanilla until thickened and creamy. It was not overly sweetened, resulting in me eating the entire 8-ounce serving in one sitting. There was a hint of saffron that added a teeny-tiny bit of a floral flavor.

Moh Moh Licious initially relied on their food truck for sales, which took a hit at the start of the pandemic. “I’ve been very lucky to be here standing during COVID,” says Dangol. “I’m very happy with where I am, with so many people talking about my food.”

Moh Moh Licious is located at 7414 Georgia Ave. NW. They are open Tuesdays through Sundays from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Pickup orders can be placed in person or over the phone. Third party delivery is available through UberEats, DoorDash, and Grubhub. Prices range from $2 to $19. 

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The Carry-Out Critic Finds Heavenly Biscuits at Sincerely Breakfast https://washingtoncitypaper.com/article/570200/the-carry-out-critic-finds-heavenly-biscuits-at-sincerely-breakfast/ Tue, 06 Sep 2022 14:00:00 +0000 https://washingtoncitypaper.com/?p=570200 A fried chicken biscuit from Sincerely BreakfastSincerely Breakfast, an all-day breakfast spot, operates under Dupont Circle in the Underground Food Court.]]> A fried chicken biscuit from Sincerely Breakfast

Sincerely Breakfast, an all-day breakfast spot in Dupont Circle, is the first of the five vendors operating from Underground Food Court, a ghost kitchen operating in Northwest D.C. Owners Tiffany Fiedler and Randall Matthews came up with the concept in March 2022. With Fiedler’s ghost kitchen experience and Matthews’ culinary background, they joined forces to create a new digital food hall. 

Matthews has extensive kitchen experience. He graduated from the Culinary Institute of America, then worked with chef Michael Mina for more than 16 years, helping open more than 20 restaurants as a corporate chef. He also helped open St. Anselm near Union Market and Ada’s on the River in Alexandria, but has since transitioned to the takeout-only concept of operating ghost kitchens. “Since the pandemic started, I’ve noticed people reverting to comfort food with takeout. We wanted to give that same hospitality,” he says. 

Underground Food Court is in the basement level of a building on 19th Street NW, just off the circle. A handwritten chalkboard rests on the sidewalk, making the food court easier to find, and touch-screen kiosks inside the ghost kitchen allow you to place orders. Online orders are placed on shelves toward the left and a pickup counter for in-person orders, which kitchen staff hand over, is to the right. 

Sincerely Breakfast’s menu includes mostly handheld items—think fast-food breakfast menus but heartier, with better ingredients and much better flavor. All their ingredients are locally sourced and cooked fresh daily. Choose between biscuit sandwiches, burritos, and French toast. There are also classic breakfast sides, like thick cut applewood smoked bacon, chicken sausage patties, and soft scrambled pasture raised eggs. Their crispy breakfast potatoes are seasoned with smoked paprika, garlic powder, chili powder, and onion powder, then roasted with bell peppers and caramelized onions.

The most popular menu item is Nana’s Favorite Fried Chicken Biscuit, which comes from Matthews’ family recipe. This sandwich is sizable, and I could hardly get my mouth around it (in a good way). Cooks brine chicken thighs in buttermilk, then dip them in a country-style batter before double frying. It’s assembled with scrambled eggs, bacon, smoked Gouda cheese, and spiced honey. While I loved the chicken, the main character here is the buttermilk biscuit. It put me in a buttery carb heaven. The same person makes the biscuits each morning, baking about 150 daily! If I worked there, only 143 would be sold, because I’d be snacking on some during my shift. 

Sincerely Breakfast's breakfast
Sincerely Breakfast’s breakfast burrito Credit: Crystal Fernanders

Breakfast burritos are also ordered frequently. Each is made with various proteins, scrambled eggs, onions, and peppers, and wrapped in a fresh flour tortilla. The harissa-charred chicken burrito comes with breakfast potatoes and a garlic aioli. The meat lover’s version has the same harissa chicken and aioli, with chunks of pork chop, bacon, pickled onion, and smoked Gouda. A vegan option is made with smoked wild mushrooms and an avocado crema, wrapped in a low-carb tortilla.

I went with their signature burrito, because I never miss an opportunity to order anything with pork belly. The cooks lightly score the fatty side of the pork belly, then sear it on a griddle to render some of the fat. It’s then rubbed down with their special spice mix to cook in the oven for three hours until it’s fork tender. The cooked pork is chilled overnight, which makes it much easier to cut into chunks before it gets seared to order. That tender pork belly in burrito form was exactly what I needed that day. Whatever is in that spice mix can be bottled up and sold in stores. 

Sincerely Breakfast's almond french toast
Sincerely Breakfast’s almond French toast Credit: Crystal Fernanders

Each of Sincerely Breakfast’s French toasts are made with brioche from Leon Bakery. There’s an old-fashioned French toast served with fresh fruit if you want to keep it classy. They also have a popular strawberry cheesecake variety. Strawberries are soaked in a bit of sugar to make their own syrup and paired with a cheesecake filling. It’s then spread between two buttery French toast slices and topped with a toasted caramel sauce. 

Sam, the super helpful kitchen manager, recommended the “Are You Almond?” French toast. It is drizzled with a slow-cooked brown butter caramel sauce, sprinkled with sea salt toasted almonds, and dusted with powdered sugar. Again, the carb gawds were with me as I took a bite. I loved that it wasn’t too sugary, and the almonds gave it a good sweet-salty combo.

Overnight oats from Sincerely Breakfaast
Sincerely Breakfast’s overnight oats Credit: Crystal Fernanders

Sincerely Breakfast has some healthier options to choose from, which doesn’t get ordered as frequently. The gluten-free parfait is made with fat-free yogurt, macerated berries, and smoked honey. The smoked turkey and egg white burritos are paleo and keto friendly. Their overnight oats are soaked in almond milk and topped with local organic honey, chia seeds, fresh berries, and gluten free crispy granola. If you want to go the fake healthy route, there’s avocado toast made with grilled avocado, sourdough, pickled red onions, fresh dill, a garlic-herb cream cheese, and a sprinkle of their secret spice. Gluten-free bread can be used for the biscuit sandwiches, burritos can be made into bowls, and whole eggs can be substituted with egg whites.

Canned drinks available at Sincerely Breakfast
Credit: Crystal Fernanders

There are a few canned and bottled beverages to quench your thirst, and cold brew coffee, orange, and apple juice are available to round out a breakfast. There are also a couple of sodas and fruity kombuchas to choose from. They’ve recently started selling a brand of canned lattes from Minor Figure, offering a coffee, chai, and matcha flavor. 

It’s not that often that you come across a breakfast spot with quick service, decent portions, and fair pricing that doesn’t compromise flavor. Sincerely Breakfast hits all three of those marks. 

Sincerely Breakfast is located at 1506 19th St. NW. Hours of operation are 8:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Wednesdays through Sundays. Pickup orders can be placed online or in person at the self-service kiosk. Delivery is available online, or through Grubhub and UberEats

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The Carry-out Critic Finds More Than Just Great Pizza at Slice & Pie https://washingtoncitypaper.com/article/565535/the-carry-out-critic-finds-more-than-just-great-pizza-at-slice-pie/ Mon, 01 Aug 2022 19:50:16 +0000 https://washingtoncitypaper.com/?p=565535 Slices of cheese, pepperoni, and burrata pizza from Slice & PieOur carry-out critic found delicious New York-style slices, Sicilian and Detroit-style squares, and some damn good meatballs at Slice & Pie on 14th Street NW.]]> Slices of cheese, pepperoni, and burrata pizza from Slice & Pie

The Italian-owned pizzeria Slice & Pie operates just off the U Street NW corridor. Chef and owner Giulio Adriani, who was born and raised in Rome, opened the storefront in March 2022 at the corner of 14th Street and Florida Avenue NW. He learned to cook from his grandmother and developed a love for pizza after his father pressured him to get a job to fund his surfing career when he was younger.

With 30 years of cooking experience, Adriani is certified as an authentic Neapolitan Pizza Master by the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana and the Associazione Pizzaiuoli Napoletani. He opened three restaurants in Italy before moving to New York 12 years ago, then opened and managed a few restaurants in the Big Apple before making his way to D.C. Along the way, he also worked with “Cake Boss” Buddy Valastro to open a Las Vegas pizzeria called Pizza Cake and became a Guinness World Record holder in 2016 for the world’s longest pizza, measuring 1.3 miles long.

This slice joint has fun black, light green, and hot pink branding. Pink and white neon signs are posted above the entrance, displaying “Slice & Pie” and “Eat Me.” Whole pizzas are on display at the counter, with drinks in a refrigerator behind the cashier and the menus on digital screens above the counter space. Cooks can be seen in the open kitchen, assembling pizzas and making fresh dough. The kitchen space is shared with Lucy, which Adriani also owns. There are a couple of tables for dining in.

The counter at Slice & Pie
Slice & Pie’s counter Credit: Crystal Fernanders

The menu is all about classic pizzas, sold as whole 18-inch pies or slices. Most are New York-style pizzas, but square pies are also available—the Detroit and the Sicilian styles are made with the same dough. Both have a thick, focaccia-like texture, but are assembled and baked differently. The Detroit style has its toppings spread to the edge with a crispier bottom. The Sicilian has a softer bottom and a slightly thinner crust.

I’m a thin-crust type of girl and went for their most popular New York-style slices, which are all made with tomato sauce and fresh mozzarella. The burrata pizza is baked with sliced tomatoes, before being garnished with chunks of the fresh burrata, basil, grated Parmesan, and a drizzle of olive oil. The mushroom pizza is one of their white pizzas made with a Parmesan cream sauce, mozzarella, garlic, truffle oil, and marinated cremini mushrooms. I appreciate that the truffle oil wasn’t overpowering—many places can get heavy-handed. 

Keep it classy and not trashy by ordering the cheese and pepperoni slices, made with mozzarella and provolone. These two slices were my favorites. There wasn’t so much cheese that you couldn’t taste the rich pizza sauce. The pepperoni were sliced thin enough to curl a bit when baking, creating those slightly crunchy “pepperoni cups” we all love. 

Slice & Pie's pizza display
Slice & Pie’s pizza display Credit: Crystal Fernanders

The pizza dough and sauces are made in house. The cooks blend canned San Marzano tomatoes with California tomatoes to make their pizza sauce. Each pie is baked in a stone oven at 540 degrees. You get that nicely toasted bottom crust, making for a sturdy slice. If you’re someone that loves pizza because of the dough, Slice & Pie is a winner. I’m guilty of not always eating the crust (unless I’m inebriated), but this one was too good to not finish. Yes, I was sober eating these pizzas.  

If you’re looking beyond pizza, Slice & Pie has a “Not Pies” section on the menu. Their Caesar salad has a Parmesan crostini, and anchovies or pan-seared chicken can be added for an up-charge. The garlic knots are made with the New York-style pizza dough, sprinkled with grated pecorino cheese, and served with a side of tomato sauce for dipping. 

There are also beef meatballs cooked in a tomato sauce, a recipe from Adriani’s grandmother, sold on their own or as a sub. “It’s good. But we don’t sell it much. Everyone is here for the pizza, because of our name,” Adriani says. Let me just say his grandma knew what she was doing—these are some damn good meatballs. They were extra soft and juicy, even as a sandwich. The pizza dough also serves as bread for the sub. There’s that crunchy exterior with a soft and fluffy center, which was perfect for the meatballs. 

Slice & Pie's meatball sub
Slice & Pie’s meatball sub Credit: Crystal Fernanders

Some canned beers and glasses of wine are available for dining in or to go. Sparkling water and sodas are the nonalcoholic options. To keep things fun, they do a weekly giveaway where they randomly select a pair of initials, displayed on their menu board. If your initials match, you get a free slice of pizza!

Slice & Pie’s pizza reheats very well. Even after two days in the fridge, the mushroom slice I had leftover was just as good as trying it the first day. Throw them in a hot oven, or in a skillet, to get the same effect as a fresh slice. 

There are several pizza spots on U Street NW, which has always been perfect for those looking for a quick bite for lunch, or during the late night hours. I recommend walking a few blocks north and experiencing a slice made by a literal professional at Slice & Pie. 

Slice & Pie is located at 2221 14th St. NW. Hours are Monday through Thursday noon to 1 a.m., Friday and Saturday noon to 3 a.m., and Sunday noon to midnight. Orders can be placed in person, online, over the phone, and through most third-party delivery apps. Prices range from $4 to $30.

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The Carry-out Critic Enjoys Soulful West African Comfort Food at Anacostia’s Open Crumb https://washingtoncitypaper.com/article/564660/the-carryout-critic-enjoys-soulful-west-african-comfort-food-at-anacostias-open-crumb/ Tue, 19 Jul 2022 15:57:33 +0000 https://washingtoncitypaper.com/?p=564660 Kutumeri and fufu from Open Crumb in AnacostiaTender chicken sandwiches, Ghanaian stews and rice dishes, and bread pudding are just some of the highlights at Open Crumb in Anacostia.]]> Kutumeri and fufu from Open Crumb in Anacostia

Open Crumb, a family-run eatery and scratch kitchen in Historic Anacostia, specializes in West African comfort food with some American influence. Think Ghanian cuisine meets soul food. Open Crumb operated as a bakery beginning in February 2019 before adapting their takeout concept a few months later. 

“Our food is prepared from raw ingredients, and our bread and desserts are all made in house,” says head chef and co-owner Peter Opare. They do some prep the night before and bake bread fresh each morning. Every menu item is also made to order, so you are guaranteed fresh food throughout the day.

Inside are a few small tables if you decide to eat your food immediately. The restaurant has bright orange walls, and a black chalkboard wall with handwritten menus is to the right side of the takeout counter. A mini fridge with bottled drinks sits by the register, with an open kitchen behind the cashier. 

Fried chicken sandwich from Open Crumb in Anacostia
Fried chicken sandwich from Open Crumb Credit: Crystal Fernanders

Open Crumb’s sandwiches are pretty popular. Fried whiting is the top seller, with the chicken sandwich right behind it. I opted for the fried chicken, which is also available grilled. Cooks marinate chicken thighs for six hours in Cajun spices and Greek yogurt before cooking. It’s assembled between a lightly toasted brioche bun and a thick layer of comeback sauce, a creamy mayonnaise-based sauce with ketchup and spices. It is then topped with fresh lettuce, sliced tomatoes, red onions, and pickles, with the option of adding melted cheddar or mozzarella. The chicken was sooooo tender because of the yogurt marinade. If you’re on the hunt for one of the best chicken sandwiches in the DMV, this is one you absolutely have to try! 

The restaurant’s other sandwich options are blackened or fried shrimp, and four-ounce lump crabcakes, all served with a housemade tartar sauce. Roasted salmon is cooked either blackened or with a ginger curry seasoning. Proteins for all sandwiches can be served bun-less, in a bowl with your side of choice. I paired the ginger curry salmon with jollof rice and spinach stew. The sides complimented the juicy salmon filet perfectly; it was also the perfect portion. Shito, a flavor-packed spicy pepper and onion condiment, is served on the side for an added kick. 

Salmon bowl with jollof rice and spinach stew at Open Crumb in Anacostia
Salmon bowl with jollof rice and spinach stew at Open Crumb Credit: Crystal Fernanders

Open Crumb has ten side dishes, served in eight- and 16-ounce portions. The jollof is most popular, a West African staple often served at parties and family gatherings. Rice is cooked with various spices, onions, peppers, and tomatoes, with its execution depending on the region. “While jollof is cooked differently in each country, it really varies per family,” Opare says. Open Crumb’s jollof is a 20-year-old recipe from his mom, Abigail. The tomatoes are cooked in a large pot until soft. Then jasmine rice, broth, and seasoning are added, and the rice steams until fluffy. 

Other starch sides include plain white rice, fried plantain, and wakye, a Ghanian rice with black-eyed peas. Vegetable options are spinach stew, fried cassava leaf, sauteed Brussels sprouts, greens braised in a mushroom stock, and a black-eyed pea stew. The mac and cheese is the side dish you must try! Each portion is baked to order in individual aluminum pans. I inhaled it and should have ordered two servings.

Open Crumb offers a handful of stews and soups. The most popular is their peanut soup, available with chicken or goat or as a vegan option. There’s also a marinated chicken stew and a goat stew, both braised with tomatoes. Kutumeri is a stew made of coco-yam leaf, egusi, tomatoes, onions, and various spices. Egusi is a protein-rich seed from melons and squash native to West Africa, often made into a soup. It gives the kutumeri a slightly nutty flavor, with a hint of spice from the seasonings. 

All the stews and soups are served with either a side or fufu. Fufu is another staple in West and Central African countries, made of plantain, white yam, or cassava. The starch is pounded until it forms a dough, then formed into a ball. It’s a labor-intensive process, sometimes made by breaking down the starch with a blender. Break off a small piece of the fufu with your fingers, and use it as a vessel for the stew of your choice. 

Bread pudding from Open Crumb in Anacostia
Open Crumb’s bread pudding Credit: Crystal Fernanders

Like all the other items, their desserts are made fresh daily. The brown butter Ghanian chocolate chip cookies are the most popular and sell out fairly quickly. Although I did not get to try them, I was still blessed with a warm slice of their amazing bread pudding, laced with allspice and nutmeg. It’s topped with a heavy drizzle of salted caramel without being overly sweet. This was one of the best bread puddings I’ve ever had. I moaned a little bit with each bite. 

Beverages are also made in house! Open Crumb serves bottles of regular and fruity lemonades. Their ginger beer is available for purchase at Whole Foods in the region. Pro tip: Mix the ginger beer with any lemonade for a refreshing drink!

Open Crumb is in a part of D.C. that’s a bit of a food desert, with fewer healthier options available at nearby takeout spots. Their nutritious, diverse, and flavorful menu is what’s needed east of the river. 

Open Crumb is located at 1243 Good Hope Road SE. Hours are Monday, Tuesday, and Saturday from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. and Wednesday through Friday from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Orders can be placed online, in person, over the phone, and through DoorDash. Prices range from $5 to $24.

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The Carry-Out Critic Gets a Taste of the Aegean Islands at a D.C. Classic Greek Deli https://washingtoncitypaper.com/article/560726/the-carry-out-critic-gets-a-taste-of-the-aegean-islands-at-a-d-c-classic-greek-deli/ Tue, 21 Jun 2022 14:51:21 +0000 https://washingtoncitypaper.com/?p=560726 Moussaka from Greek Deli in Washington, D.C.Greek Deli & Catering is a family-owned takeout spot in Northwest D.C. that serves authentic and homemade Greek dishes. Chef Kostas Fostieris lived in Andros, in the Aegean Islands, before moving to the states in the 1970s. He eventually opened his own restaurant, which has been operating for more than 30 years.  The walls in […]]]> Moussaka from Greek Deli in Washington, D.C.

Greek Deli & Catering is a family-owned takeout spot in Northwest D.C. that serves authentic and homemade Greek dishes. Chef Kostas Fostieris lived in Andros, in the Aegean Islands, before moving to the states in the 1970s. He eventually opened his own restaurant, which has been operating for more than 30 years. 

The walls in the restaurant are decked with a few portraits of former U.S. presidents and first ladies, along with dozens of framed articles from the restaurant’s many features in local news outlets over the years. Soda machines are on one side of the counter, along with a refrigerated display case showing their cold menu items. On the other side is a large bookcase full of shelf-stable ingredients sourced from Greece, such as honey, couscous, beans, olive oil, and candy. A white printed menu is posted high above the ordering area, which allows you to peek into a tiny open kitchen. A couple of tables are set up on the patio if you choose to eat your food right away.

Greek Deli is a staple for those working in the area. With limited hours due to the pandemic, they get much of their business from nearby office workers. But the previously congested area around Dupont Circle has seen a lot less daytime foot traffic over the past two years, with many employees still working remotely. Despite the slower business, I saw many returning customers on my visit. 

Fostieris is very big on his connection with his regulars. His conversations are personable and knowledgeable, but he still keeps the line moving. Even on my first visit, I felt like a regular before even placing an order. As customers came in, the chef asked if they were getting their usual, or if they wanted to switch it up. One regular had worked in the area since 2007 before eventually moving out of state. Greek Deli was always part of her visits back home, stating “Kostas is the best owner EVER!” Another customer occasionally works in the area, having his team stay at a nearby hotel. After one visit, they returned every day of the week. 

Greek Deli sources a majority of their ingredients directly from Greece. The menu is divided into hot specialties, sandwiches, soups, salads, sides, and some combo meals. These combos, which include your choice between two soups, are ordered frequently. The hearty vegetarian lentil soup is their most popular. There’s also avgolemono, a creamy and lemony chicken and orzo soup. Even on a warm day, they sold out of both soups, which proves their popularity.

Beef meatballs from Greek Deli in Washington, D.C.
Meatballs from Greek Deli Credit: Crystal Fernanders

Diners can choose from several proteins for the hot specialty platters. Roasted chicken and turkey are the white meat options. Gigantic beef meatballs slowly cook for three hours in a zesty tomato sauce, and are, simply put, delicious. Spanakopita, a spinach and feta pie layered between phyllo dough before baking until crispy, is a vegetarian crowd-pleaser. Roast legs of lamb are cooked slowly in white wine, lemon juice, garlic, and spices for four hours until fork-tender, then sliced before serving. As someone who doesn’t usually enjoy lamb, this one was tasty, so lamb fans should love it! 

Other specialties include moussaka and pastitsio. Each have layers of a creamy bechamel sauce and juicy ground beef, but it’s the fillings that set the two apart. The pastitsio has a layer of pasta. The moussaka has a middle layer of sliced eggplant, with potatoes on the bottom. Both are baked and served like lasagna, with a spoonful of fresh tomato sauce on top. I had the moussaka and fell in LOVE! Each bite melted in my mouf (yes, mouf). I also felt healthier since I went the pasta-less route (is what I’m telling myself).

Each hot specialty is paired with a few scoops of warm orzo, a side salad, and a hefty serving of tender green beans. Now, the green beans are something that I could eat daily. They are braised with chunks of tomatoes, onions, garlic, and olive oil, which creates a light sauce that’s perfect for the orzo. The platters are a decent size. I got two meals out of one serving. The hot proteins can also be added to a Greek salad with a side of creamy balsamic vinaigrette.

Then, of course, there’s the obligatory gyro! Finely ground beef is seasoned with spices, packed tightly into loaf pans, and baked until cooked through. Cooks slightly cool the beef, then thinly slice before serving. The meat is placed onto warm pita bread with tomatoes, red onions, and shredded lettuce. It’s rolled up and wrapped in foil for handheld eating, then slapped with a smear of house-made tzatziki. “I really love this gyro! The meat was juicy, and the pita was fluffy. And there was the perfect amount of toppings on it,” one customer told me. 

Baklava from Greek Deli in Washington, D.C.
Baklava from Greek Deli Credit: Crystal Fernanders

Greek Deli also offers a handful of desserts to complete your meal. The rizogalo is a creamy rice pudding. A lighter route is the homemade yogurt drizzled with honey and sprinkled with crushed walnuts. However, I went the heavier route by getting a massive slice of their fresh baklava, a sweeter dessert of phyllo dough layered with lightly spiced chopped walnuts, butter, and lots of honey. It is then baked, making a flaky, sticky dessert of love. Baklava is one of the most popular desserts in Greece, which also stands true in this deli. 

For those feeding a crowd, the takeout spot also offers catering. Each menu item can be ordered in bulk. A set menu is also available with options similar to the hot specialties, accompanied with salads, side dishes, and desserts. Early birds can also enjoy a hot breakfast of omelets and toasted pita until 11 a.m.

Authenticity and hospitality are the name of the game at Greek Deli. I’m hopeful that they’ll get a lot more business as downtown buildings slowly return to full operation, so those wanting to try them outside of lunch hours can give them a well-deserved visit.

Greek Deli is located at 1120 19th St. NW. Hours of operation are 7 a.m. to 4 p.m. Monday through Friday. Pickup orders are placed in person. Catering orders must be placed by phone at least a day in advance. Delivery is available through DoorDash. Prices range from $8 to $20.

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The Carry-Out Critic Finds Quesabirria and Savory-Sweet Drinks at Taqueria Xochi https://washingtoncitypaper.com/article/558196/the-carry-out-critic-finds-quesabirria-and-savory-sweet-drinks-at-taqueria-xochi/ Fri, 27 May 2022 15:33:38 +0000 https://washingtoncitypaper.com/?p=558196 Lengua tacos from Taqueria XochiTaqueria Xochi is a woman-owned Mexican carry-out restaurant in Shaw. Owners Teresa Padilla and Geraldine Mendoza founded Taqueria Xochi after being furloughed early in the pandemic. Xochi started out in a commissary kitchen in Capitol Heights before its founders began running a pop-up concept in Little Beast in the summer of 2020. Padilla and mendoza […]]]> Lengua tacos from Taqueria Xochi

Taqueria Xochi is a woman-owned Mexican carry-out restaurant in Shaw. Owners Teresa Padilla and Geraldine Mendoza founded Taqueria Xochi after being furloughed early in the pandemic. Xochi started out in a commissary kitchen in Capitol Heights before its founders began running a pop-up concept in Little Beast in the summer of 2020. Padilla and mendoza then opened their first brick and mortar carry-out restaurant on 9th Street NW in October 2020.

Taqueria Xochi (pronounced “so-chee”) gets its name from Xochitecatl ruins near Padilla’s hometown of San Jose Teacalco, Mexico. Padilla worked for several years in Jose Andres’ ThinkFoodGroup restaurants, and after being displaced because of COVID-19, Padilla used the opportunity to chase her dream of introducing traditional Mexican cuisine to the D.C. area. She then partnered with Mendoza, the director of operations, and Taqueria Xochi was born. They plan to open a second location in Crystal City by the end of the year. 

This U Street spot is a bit of a hidden gem. While it’s in a popular area, a covered streatery from a neighboring restaurant blocks its view from the road. The bright pink and blue exposed brick will definitely catch your eye if you’re walking. A neon sign displays the restaurant name above the storefront. Its glass window displays its menu with a serape, a traditional Mexican blanket, draped behind it. Guests place and pick up orders at two windows. An employee-only entrance features the restaurant’s logo—a sketch of Padilla. 

Xochi’s menu is all about authenticity. The antojitos are their appetizers with classics like chips and salsa, guacamole, nachos, and cups of street corn. Cemitas are Puebla-style sandwiches with a choice of deep fried chicken or beef milanesa cutlet, Oaxaca cheese, avocado, yellow onions, refried beans, mayonnaise, and sliced tomatoes. Tortas are another sandwich option, assembled with shredded pork or birria, and various toppings to pair with each. A mild salsa verde made of tomatillos, and a smoky salsa morita made of dried chili peppers, are served on the side of all menu items.

Quesabirria tacos at Taqueria Xochi. Photo by Crystal Fernanders.

Xochi’s most popular menu item is their quesabirria, and was also my favorite. Birria is a braised meat dish that quickly gained popularity in the U.S. in the past few years. Cooks sear lamb or beef, and slowly simmer it in a broth seasoned with rehydrated dried chilies, vinegar, spices, onions, and garlic. The meat is then shredded and served in its braising liquid, known as consommé. 

Quesabirria won everyone’s hearts when it made its way to the U.S. The juicy shredded meat is added onto tortillas and topped with Chihuahua cheese. Cooks then fold the tortillas over and sear them on a griddle until the cheese is melted, making a birria quesadilla of sorts. A cup of consommé is served on the side for dipping the quesabirria, like a Mexican version of a French dip sandwich. If you’re a fan of that, it’s imperative that you try this one out! I’ve had my fair share of quesabirria, and Xochi’s is in my top 2. But they’re not at number 2!

You cannot go to a Mexican restaurant without ordering tacos. Xochi has nine to choose from, served three per order and topped with fresh cilantro, diced white onions, and lime wedges. Name your favorite taco filling, and they’ll have it. From carne asada to shredded chicken, and some vegetarian options like mushroom, cactus, or refried bean, there’s a taco option for every palate.

“Our lengua tacos are very underrated,” says Mendoza. Lengua is beef tongue, so it’s easy to understand why some diners might be initially skeptical. The beef tongue cooks low and slow for several hours until softened. The outer skin is peeled off, leaving a tender chunk of meat. The cooks then dice the meat into chunks, and sear it on a flat top grill before serving. Please do not be a punk by passing this one up. The beef tongue was very flavorful, nearly melting in my mouth. A squeeze of lime juice brightens the flavor a bit, but wasn’t needed. Yes, I would order this again and again. 

Mulitas are another popular dish on the menu. It reminded me of a miniature quesadilla made of a corn tortilla instead of flour. The fillings for these are similar to their taco options, with seven to choose from. I went with the chicken tinga mulita, which is cooked with tomatoes, onions, and chipotle for about an hour before it gets shredded. I inhaled this one. It was perfect on its own, but I loved it even more when spreading the salsa morita on every other bite. There are two mulitas in each serving—trust me, you’ll want to order twice as many. 

Xochi offers several beverages to wash down all that good food. There’s bottled Mexican sodas, like Coke, Sprite, and Jarritos. House-made agua frescas, a popular refreshing drink in Mexico, blend fruit with water and a bit of sugar. 

Mangonada from Taqueria Xochi. Photo by Crystal Fernanders.

Their mangonada is the epitome of a summer drink. Frozen mangoes are blended into a sippable sorbet, swirled with a bit of spiced chamoy sauce, and dusted with chili powder. Xochi fancies theirs up with a tamarind covered candy straw for drinking. Mango chunks, Mexican gummy candies, and a spicy mango lollipop top the drink. The sweetness of the mango paired with the spicy and tangy flavor from the chamoy will send your taste buds on a refreshing and fun roller coaster.

And of course, there’s dessert! The classic tres leches is a chilled sponge cake soaked in a sweetened milk mixture, served with sliced strawberries. Bunuelos de viento are crispy and airy pieces of fried dough dusted with cinnamon and sugar. The chocoflan is Xochi’s most popular dessert. A dense chocolate cake is stacked with a creamy vanilla egg custard and a thin layer of sweet caramel sauce. I loved how the cake was moist and not too chocolatey, and the sauce wasn’t overly sweet. The rich vanilla of the flan tied this all together. 

Chocoflan from Taqueria Xochi. Photo by Crystal Fernanders.

Xochi offers some menu items as party platters. Mix and match three or six proteins to make up to 30 tacos. Quesabirria platters are served in sets of 20 or 40. They have a Xochi Hour, their version of a happy hour, from 4 p.m. to 6 p.m. Mondays through Fridays with a handful of their menu items sold at a discounted price. A condensed late night menu is available on Fridays and Saturdays after 11 p.m.

Taqueria Xochi is the takeout Mexican restaurant that needs to be added to everyone’s list. You really can’t beat traditional cuisine on the go!

Taqueria Xochi is open Sundays and Mondays from 4 p.m to 10 p.m., Tuesdays through Thursdays from 4 p.m. to 11 p.m, and Fridays and Saturdays from 4 p.m. to 1 a.m. Delivery is available through UberEats and DoorDash. Pickup orders can be placed online or in person. 

Taqueria Xochi, 924 U Street NW (202) 292-2859, taqueriaxochi.com

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