Austin Morgan, Author at Washington City Paper https://washingtoncitypaper.com Fri, 12 Apr 2024 15:55:46 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://newspack-washingtoncitypaper.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/2020/08/cropped-CP-300x300.png Austin Morgan, Author at Washington City Paper https://washingtoncitypaper.com 32 32 182253182 Clarified: The Difference in Cocktails is Clear https://washingtoncitypaper.com/article/689818/clarified-the-difference-in-cocktails-is-clear/ Fri, 12 Apr 2024 15:55:38 +0000 https://washingtoncitypaper.com/?p=689818 The Clarified Orange Julius from Your Only FriendOver the past several months, bar-goers in D.C. may have noticed an uptick of clarified options on drink menus. The centuries-old technique of cocktail clarification has made a recent splash as bartenders explore nuanced techniques to achieve bold flavors with fewer particulates. The result is a transparent, smooth pour with a deliciously light mouthfeel and […]]]> The Clarified Orange Julius from Your Only Friend

Over the past several months, bar-goers in D.C. may have noticed an uptick of clarified options on drink menus. The centuries-old technique of cocktail clarification has made a recent splash as bartenders explore nuanced techniques to achieve bold flavors with fewer particulates. The result is a transparent, smooth pour with a deliciously light mouthfeel and less alcohol burn.

The fun and whimsy associated with cocktails lies within their vibrant and spirited colors. “The first thing we do is drink with our eyes,” explains Sherra Kurtz, co-owner and cocktail queen behind the bar at Your Only Friend. “For us, it comes down to giving people something that is expected in some ways but unexpected in another.”

The methods used to achieve clarification include milk-washing (the OG), centrifugation, and gravity straining among others. Still, the general idea is simple: The higher the number of impurities (such as fruit puree, spices, etc.) extracted from the alcohol, the clearer and more refined your cocktail becomes.

To give you an idea of how this works, consider the banana-clarified punch at Bryant Street Market’s Alegria. It features an intoxicating banana flavor but leaves little trace of how it arrives here. This rum-forward favorite uses a classic milk-washing technique and a coffee filter to remove bits of fruit, cinnamon, and star anise that have been infused with alcohol for several days.  

At Alegria, steamed milk is added to a tub of banana-infused liquor to begin forming curds; Credit: Austin Morgan

To get started, “we cook the bananas with cinnamon and star anise for 30 minutes,” says William Martinez, co-founder of the year-old hot spot on Rhode Island Avenue NE. Pleasantly warm aromatics overwhelm the small oven and waft toward the common area; once removed from the oven, the concoction is combined with alcohol: Two types of rum and a banana liquor are required. The batch is then left to sit in the refrigerator for several days.

When ready, the milk-washing process can begin by heating milk in a saucepan. “The reason we cook it is because we want to make sure it curdles faster,” explains Martinez. Then add the steaming milk to the cold tub of banana-soaked booze to begin curdling. Next, add lime juice for acidity, which speeds the process along as it mixes with the milk.

William Martinez adds a final garnish to Alegria’s banana-clarified punch; Credit: Austin Morgan

Finally, strain everything through a coffee filter to yield a clear, boozy, and fragrant liquid with a light golden hue. Intense banana flavors dance on the tongue with notes of cinnamon and star anise. But be careful: It goes down easily.

Some clarifieds arrive with a tinge of color depending on the method and cocktail itself, while some are crystal clear. It’s a sensory illusion to see the bartender pour a drink that resembles water but tastes like concentrated fruit. Don’t panic! You’re not tripping. In addition to the wow factor, clarification offers multiple benefits.

Allegory’s Looking Glass cocktail uses a centrifuge for clarification and offers notes of chayote squash and yuzu citrus; Credit: Austin Morgan

“Now, I think bartenders are using it more like a building block tool to enhance the drink and enhance the flavor instead of just trying to achieve clarity for the sake of clarity,” says Deke Dunne, the acclaimed bar director at Allegory. He also points out that clarification helps stabilize the mixture and provide a significantly longer shelf life—another notch in the “pro” clarifieds column.

Reducing spoilage is an important factor, but beyond simple preservation, this allows bartenders and creative directors the freedom to experiment and accentuate any ingredient(s) with confidence that, at a bare minimum, it won’t ruin the drink. 

A side-by-side comparison of a traditional Negroni versus its clarified counterpart at the Alchemist; Credit: Austin Morgan

With endless possibilities on hand, Josh Valencia, owner of the Alchemist on U Street NW, limits the clarified offerings with an iteration of a Negroni. “We really wanted to pay homage to the classic cocktail itself,” Valencia explains. The Codmother’s successor offers quarterly menu updates with the goal of consistently researching and refining traditional practices.

“The process is arguably more labor-intensive,” says Alchemist creative director Aakash Gala. The effort takes coordination on days the bar is closed, but if executed correctly, can yield enough drinks to last a few weeks, ultimately saving your bartender time amidst a busy scene. But the main benefit to clarification, is a better all-around experience for the imbiber.

Offering something new and clarified is “more about showcasing a skill,” Martinez says in closing. “Bartenders want to explore a little bit more and give the customer a little bit more. For me, I’m like, ‘Let’s have fun!’”

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The Buzz on Caffeine: Four Coffee Pop-ups Worth the Hype https://washingtoncitypaper.com/article/617311/the-buzz-on-caffeine-four-coffee-popups-worth-the-hype/ Tue, 01 Aug 2023 18:34:06 +0000 https://washingtoncitypaper.com/?p=617311 Joe Reyes of Grafika pulls a shot of espresso for a latteMicro companies are on a mission to serve D.C. residents and visitors the perfect cup of coffee.]]> Joe Reyes of Grafika pulls a shot of espresso for a latte

A lot of people regularly consume coffee; some are consumed by coffee. If the average Joe turns their coffee addiction into a profession, they might begin working as a barista at a local cafe. A well-trained, dedicated barista can become a manager or maybe even a partner at their respective company, but what does it take to reach the next level? 

Coffee pop-ups have become increasingly prevalent as industry professionals dial in their obsessions and seek to gain market share through their unique version of the perfect cup. If you can forgo the need for Wi-Fi or coworking space and focus solely on cup quality, a morning jaunt to a local pop-up can do everything coffee intends to do: get you up and moving. The journey can be rewarding in more than one way. 

A great introduction to pop-ups is Cam’s Kettle, operating at Eastern Market on Saturdays and Sundays. Stands and food trucks make it easy to pair your morning fuel with a delicious bite. If you’ve visited the market within the past five years, you’ve likely crossed paths with Cameron Waggener, the primary face behind the brand that sources and roasts the beans it sells.

A bottle of Cam’s Kettle cold brew on ice at Eastern Market
A bottle of Cam’s Kettle cold brew on ice at Eastern Market Credit: Austin Morgan

Waggener, a self-described “chatty Kathy,” takes time to speak with and educate customers about his process of working with farms, the company’s vision, and what he’s focused on growing now—his subscription service. The coffee club is an excellent option for those who enjoy the convenience of coffee at home. At the pop-up, cold brew and 12 oz. bags are available for individual purchase; monthly subscribers get free cups of cold brew or hot coffee when they visit the market. 

Next on the quest for a perfect cup is Others Coffee. Partners and cofounders Brian Raupp and Ashley May are powered by an entrepreneurial spirit, a love for art and design, and of course, coffee. Others strategically launched on Sept. 29, 2020, widely recognized as National Coffee Day.

The worldwide pandemic shutdown gave the couple ample time to consider every avenue of creative branding, which is a large part of their company. May sells stationery and art prints at their Little Others weekend pop-up in Adams Morgan alongside stylish merchandise and flowers in collaboration with Little Acre Flowers. The space gives Others’ customers an idea of what a brick-and-mortar might offer. 

Others cofounders Brian Raupp and Ashley May at their Little Others popup
Others cofounders Ashley May and Brian Raupp at their Little Others pop-up Credit: Austin Morgan

Raupp and May purchased a small drum roaster as they saw the need to experiment and develop the perfect roasts to sell their clients. “Coffee is amazing, obviously, and I really enjoy the process of roasting … but I’m even more into marketing and building the brand,” Raupp says when asked if they would eventually hire someone to take over roasting. For now, it’s all hands on deck for Others.

In a similarly caffeinated vein, you’ll find Little Hat Coffee. While new to the pop-up game, teammates Hwan Choi and Frankie Contreras have no shortage of industry experience. Choi recently spent four years at Northeast staple Maketto, while Contreras brings both barista and consulting experience with well-known establishments such as Yellow and The Wydown. While they don’t roast their own beans (at least not yet), Little Hat works closely with A Toda Madre Roasters, based in Maryland, to supply their coffee.  

Hwan Choi of Little Hat makes an espresso drink at Alegria in Bryant Street Market
Hwan Choi of Little Hat makes an espresso drink at Alegria in Bryant Street Market Credit: Austin Morgan

Choi and Contreras take a fun and lighthearted approach to the pop-up scene while effortlessly cranking out items beyond your typical cup of coffee. Imagine a burnt orange espresso tonic over ice or a creative matcha-based drink. Hungry? Hwan and Frankie have previously collaborated with restaurants to create and serve entrees, including chopped cheese sandwiches, a plant-based banh mi, and various breakfast sandwiches. You can currently find them at Bryant Street Market, working with friends at Taqueria Habanero and Alegria.

You’d hate to skip Grafika, run by Joe and Heather Reyes. The company name combines two words: “graphic,” as the couple also have backgrounds in art, and “fika,” an essential part of Swedish culture. Fika is not only a physical break for coffee and a snack—it’s a mindset and a way of life, representing the ability to socialize and unwind. Their events at The Art Room near Union Market featuring coffee and homemade cardamom buns, provide that opportunity.

From the brand aesthetic to how they approach serving customers, Grafika embodies simplicity. However, their coffee gets served with a technical precision that only comes from experience and a complex understanding of coffee and methodology. Whether you crave an expertly pulled shot of espresso or the perfect pour-over, Grafika invests in the best of everything—both beans and equipment—so you can enjoy them as intended. They also teach classes so you can learn brew methods and barista techniques yourself.

Morning rituals should no longer be so predictable. For your next buzz, consider diving a little deeper into your favorite caffeinated beverage.

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A Top-Notch Birrieria Is Hiding Inside a Popular Korean Restaurant https://washingtoncitypaper.com/article/599851/top-notch-taco-de-birria-is-hiding-inside-noma-rice-bar/ Wed, 19 Apr 2023 20:26:54 +0000 https://washingtoncitypaper.com/?p=599851 Birria from Taco de Birria by Rice Bar in Washington, D.C.The result of a pandemic pivot, Taco de Birria by Rice Bar hides in plain sight outside the NoMa Metro station.]]> Birria from Taco de Birria by Rice Bar in Washington, D.C.

These days, you’re unlikely to stop inside a taqueria and not find some offering of birria on the menu. The traditional Mexican dish can be enjoyed as a stew or separated into consomme and shredded meat for tacos and burritos, making it a premium option at your neighborhood taco joint. What you probably wouldn’t expect, though, is that one of the DMV’s top-rated birrierias is hidden inside a popular Korean chain. 

Nestled inside a repurposed Rice Bar on 2nd Street NE in NoMa, you will find Taco de Birria; the name, initially a placeholder, leaves little doubt regarding its new food concept. However, shy of an A-frame sign outside and a menu banner inside, nothing about the location’s aesthetic has changed since early 2020, when Rice Bar sold its last bowl of bibimbap here. The recent, all too familiar pandemic brought about a unique set of challenges that forced business owners to think on their toes and adapt to new circumstances. 

At the height of its operation, Rice Bar operated nine total locations, each serving its standard, fast-casual Korean fare. Upon halting operations at several restaurants, owner James Lee called on a longtime employee to discuss and strategize a new concept. “Birria is still new to this area, so we thought it would be a good idea to help us reopen,” said chef Demesio Esquivel, an employee of Rice Bar for more than a dozen years and new partner at Taco de Birria. 

Chef Demesio Esquivel
Chef Demesio Esquivel Credit: Austin Morgan

Only within the past few years has birria boomed on the East Coast, in large part due to social media. If you’re a foodie, you’ve almost certainly scrolled your Instagram timeline, stumbled across a viral photo of a taco getting dunked into a bowl of glistening broth, and instantly stopped. But not every restaurant goes viral on social media. When a new concept opens under difficult circumstances, can it be the savior it was intended to be?

Prior to reopening, Esquivel spent a few months refining and perfecting his birria recipe with the goal of reviving the NoMa location. He would make a trip every Sunday to meet with Lee and get his feedback on the latest version. “When I took Jim the final sample batch of birria, he said, ‘This is it,’” Esquivel recalls now. After tasting their way around town for comparison, the team of two knew they had a recipe for success. 

Before you start dunking, detach yourself from the notion that Korean flavors might be incorporated into the recipe. Esquivel, who hails from Guatemala, pays homage to traditional birria, which calls for red meat to be slow-cooked for hours in broth and adobo sauce, a marinade consisting of chiles, tomatoes, onions, and an abundance of herbs and spices. Today’s popular version replaces goat or lamb with beef (birria de res) and packs a combo punch of rich, salty, acidic, and savory flavors to your taste buds. At Taco de Birria, a chicken version is also available, but red meat is the clear choice among pros.  

The restaurant operates in the standard layout of most fast-casual spots: Upon entering, you are prompted to order immediately. Choose your base item before scooching down the line to add your favorite toppings and salsas. As the name suggests, tacos are the most popular option here. A standard order arrives as a trio with generous side portions of yellow rice and consomme for dipping—the best of both worlds. The quesabirria tacos are a smash hit, and unless you’re lactose intolerant, an absolute must. Quesadillas are very similar to tacos; the main difference is that cheese is mandatory. They also arrive as two pieces instead of three and without any sides. 

A birria taco being dipped in a cup on consomme from Taco de Birria by Rice Bar in
Taco de Birria’s tacos Credit: Austin Morgan

If you’re craving a hot bowl of stew—the kind that seems to touch your soul on its way down—this is where you want to be. Select your protein alongside noodles or rice as a base. While the broth is near-perfect on its own, additional toppings increase the depth of flavor and provide new textures. Pro tip: Use the toppings liberally. Finish with a generous squeeze of lime, and in the moment of your first bite (or slurp), the world stands still. 

A birria burrito from Taco de Birria in Washington, D.C.
A birria burrito Credit: Austin Morgan

Burritos and burrito bowls round out your entree options. Both arrive seemingly as heavy as a newborn child and offer tremendous value. In fact, everything at Taco de Birria is modestly priced. If you’re looking for a flavor-packed meal without breaking the bank, stop in and grab a seat. Orders can also be placed online at ricebardc.com—just be sure to click on the 2nd Street location to view the menu.

Taco de Birria by Rice Bar, 1300 2nd St. NE, (202) 817-3244, ricebardc.com

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