Walking into Hill East Burger for the first time, I had the strange sensation I had been there before, even though it opened in early October. Located in the former Wisdom gin bar space on the far eastern end of Pennsylvania Avenue SE, the burger joint possesses a charming, lived-in sensibility and quirky aesthetic that makes it feel like it has been there forever.

The vibe is 1970s basement meets small-town Texas bar. Chandeliers made from century-old Hungarian wagon wheels and holey tubes of dried cholla cactus hang from the ceiling, while a mounted buck head peers out from behind the wooden bar. Tucked on one side in the back is a 1959 Seeburg 222 jukebox filled mostly with country western classics, and a few Beatles tunes and Motown favorites. A taxidermied armadillo crouches atop it. Above that, a crucified Jesus dangles from a cross of antlers.

The 42-seat Texas-flavored burger joint with a 12-seat patio is a collaboration between partners Chris Svetlik, who owns Republic Cantina, Joe Neuman, who owns Sloppy Mama’s, and Ben Alt, a veteran of the D.C. bar scene. Alt handles the beverage program, Neuman oversees the food, and Svetlik handles the back office, design, and aesthetic elements (he even made the chandeliers). “We were all looking for ways that this would not just feel like a random burger spot, but something that was an outgrowth of our existing businesses and our followings,” says Svetlik.

For years, Neuman had been looking for ways to use the considerable amount of brisket trim Sloppy Mama’s generates. Now he combines it with Roseda Farms grass-fed aged beef to create HEB’s burgers. Balled into 3-ounce portions, the meat is cold smoked over hickory for 30 minutes, infusing a rich, smoky flavor that doesn’t become cloying or overwhelming. The patties are griddled, smash burger style, creating crispy caramelized edges and tender, juicy cores.

The OK Burger is far better than OK; it’s A+++. Served on a crushable potato bun with your choice of one or two patties, it comes with “the people’s cheese” (yellow American) and a generous supply of pickles. It tastes like a damn fine backyard barbecue cheeseburger, but the smoke takes it to another level. For an even more smoke-forward, Southwestern riff, try the Puebla, with poblano relish and smoked cheddar. It’s a trip to Santa Fe with no plane ticket required.

A vegan option, the Savannah, will appeal to more than plant-focused diners. A golden crusted round hides a mix of grits and black-eyed peas (the same mix used to make the restaurant’s satisfying veggie nugs) and comes topped with arugula, pickled onions, and a dollop of tomato relish.

Fried chicken is made in the style of country fried steak. Thighs are tenderized, marinated in a buttermilk/pickle juice/hot sauce combo, dipped in flour, dunked in buttermilk, dipped into flour again, and finally fried until they’re gleaming golden brown. Covered in crags, crannies, and crispy nubbins on the outside, but tender, juicy, and flavor packed once you take a bite, it rivals the burgers.

Not ready to fully commit to a chicken sando at a burger spot? Order the tasty nuggets to get sample taste. Another side option are the fries, which are little Frankenstein monsters combining the heft and thickness of steak fries with the twist of curly fries. They’re good for catching condiments, but were a bit stodgy for my taste.

Speaking of the sauces, order all of them. They arrive in charming miniature enamel mugs like one you might have sipped from while sitting around a campfire. Two sauces will be familiar to Sloppy Mama’s fans: sweet and tangy barbecue and mustard-based Georgia Gold, which Neuman has been making for years. New additions include beefonaise (a mixture of mayonnaise, beef tallow, and confit garlic), chipotle-spiked chunky tomato relish, and HEB sauce, a play on Chick-fil-A sauce (essentially a mix of barbecue sauce and honey mustard). Don’t worry purists, classic ketchup, mustard, and mayo are available on request.

You order using a QR code. Food and drinks are brought to the table by staffers, who are also happy to answer questions or help in general. This style of service requires fewer employees, so the restaurant can offer its team better compensation, a model aided by a 20 percent service charge split between the kitchen, front of the house, and staff benefits.

Looking to wet your whistle? Alt forges a pair of memorable sodas: righteously in-your-face ginger spiced up with chipotle that leaves your tongue tingling and a more soothing, oregano-laced orange. Both stand tall on their own, but for those seeking something stronger, Alt recommends a rum-amaro blend for the ginger and either mezcal or tequila in the orange.

Cocktails run classic, but with thoughtful twists, such as a Boulevardier featuring tallow washed bourbon, a martini made with olive brine and olive oil washed vodka, and an Old Fashioned punched up with lapsang souchong-infused rum. The beer list is mostly local, apart from Schlenkerla Rauchbier Märzen, a German smoked beer, and half a dozen canned wines are available. Ask about specialty sipping spirits, such as mushroom-infused rum and rare mezcals Svetlik hand imported from Mexico.

As I stepped out from my dinner, utterly satisfied, and started the drive home, I wished I lived closer. Sure, HEB is out of the way for folks like me, but burger buffs need to get over there ASAP. These are some of the best burgs in the city right now.

Hill East Burger, 1432 Pennsylvania Ave. SE. (202) 744-3339, hilleastburger.com.